Hot Tips For Cool Pets! … Part 4: Sun, Fun & FOOD

During the summer, many of us have barbeques, picnics, and pool parties with family and friends. When people get together, there’s always food and drink involved. We love to eat, and so do our pets. It’s great for our fur kids to enjoy our parties too; here are a few tips to help your party animal have a good time, while keeping him safe too…

Watch the grill: How many times have you been at a BBQ and thought, “That smells so good?” Then, mouth watering, walked over to check out the food. It’s a natural reaction for all of us, including our pets. Dogs and cats don’t get the concept of ‘too hot to touch,’ so they may try to raid the grill, and get seriously burned in the process. Or a dog, even if he’s just playing and running around, can knock over some barbeques, and get burned or start a fire. It’s best to always keep pets away from the grill!

Please don’t feed my dog: Like some people, pets can have allergies to certain foods. Some of the things we like to eat can make pets very ill, or even kill them. Some foods are too sweet, rich or spicy for our fur babies, but they’ll eat it then, and throw up later. People often fall for those sad eyes, watching as they take every bite, and they’ll feed the dog something they shouldn’t. Keep an eye on your pets, and the people too. Tell everyone what your pet can and cannot eat, or request that they not to feed the pet at all. It might be a little embarrassing, but it could save your pet a lot of misery, and you a large vet bill.

Foods pets should never eat: No COOKED Bones! I’m a big proponent of giving dogs, and cats, raw meaty bones as part of their regular diet. They are carnivores and a diet consisting of: raw muscle meat with some fat, some organ meat, bone, and a small amount of ground veggies, is the optimal diet for dogs and cats. So raw bones are a part of Jesse’s and my cats’ diets, and they love them. Most raw bones are great for your dog, but not when they’re cooked. Heat changes the molecular structure of a bone, making it brittle. Then sharp pieces can be consumed and cause internal injuries. So if you’re going to cook ribs, chicken, or anything on the bone, and you want to share with your best friend, by all means do, just don’t cook his. A nice raw, meaty rib bone, turkey neck, or chicken back could make your dog very happy, and keep him busy while everyone else eating too.

Never let your pets eat: chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions, raw bread dough, or macadamia nuts; these foods are toxic to, and can kill, dogs and cats.

Just water, please: I hate to admit this, but back in my youthful party days, I had a Chihuahua mix, named Bilbo Baggins, who loved beer. Of course, he only knew he loved beer because I gave him ‘just a little’ a couple times. Bilbo quickly learned to wait and watch for anyone to put a beer down. Then he would immediately knock it over, greedily lap it up, and then stagger around. At the time it seemed funny. Now that I’m older, and have more knowledge about dogs and life, when I think about it, I feel regret. We were lucky, nothing bad seemed to happen to him, but now I realize how much damage I might have caused my sweet Bilbo… his little body was not equipped to metabolize alcohol. It doesn’t take much for a dog to suffer or die from alcohol poisoning! So only give them good old water J

It’s their party too: Have some healthy snacks for your pets. As I mentioned, raw bones are great treats for dogs and cats; and, unlike kibble, raw bones help to keep their teeth healthy and clean. On hot days, I sometimes give Jesse a frozen raw bone, licking it cools his off and gives him something to do. While my dog and most cats won’t touch them, many dogs love fruits and vegetables; plus, cooked or raw, meat makes great treats for them, just leave off the spices. Keep in mind how much food your dog is eating, don’t let him overeat. Maybe cut back, or skip, his evening meal, if he’s had a bunch of food during the party.

We all scream for ice cream: One of our favorite treats, especially on hot days, is ice cream. Dogs like it too, but it’s really too sweet and creamy for them. However, there are commercially available frozen doggie treats. Many of them aren’t that great; they’re packed with artificial flavorings and chemicals. However, like yöghund, there are some healthy frozen treats available too. Always read the ingredients panel when choosing any food for your pet! Of course, you can always make your own frozen treats…

Pupsicles: The Honest Kitchen makes a product called Ice Pups, which you mix with water and freeze (it can be used, chilled or warm, as a drink too). Or, you can mix equal portions of low sodium broth and water, maybe add some small cubes of meat, cheese and/or veggies, pour it into an ice cube tray and freeze. Your dog will have a great time licking the meat flavored ice cubes and eating the bits of food. For larger pupsicles, pour your pupsicle mix into paper cups and freeze. Just for fun, you might even pop a bully stick into them once they’ve started to get solid. When they’re frozen, run the cups under cool water to remove the pupsicle.

Frozen Kongs: Kongs are great toys and treats in one. If you make them interesting by stuffing them with a variety of good food, they can keep a dog busy for a long time. There are several recipes on their website to give you ideas. Freezing a well-stuffed Kong makes a cooling, and time-consuming treat during a party, or anytime.

For more info on nutrition for our carnivore kids, check out these books:

Scared Poopless: The Straight Scoop on Dog Care, by Chiclet T. Dog & Jan Rasmusen

Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats: The Ultimate Diet, by Kymythy R. Schultze, C.C.N., A.H.I.

Food Pets Die For, by Ann Martin

Hot Tips For Cool Pets! … Part 3: Seeking Cooler Places

On hot days, we seek cooler places. We go inside, and turn on air conditioners and fans. Or we go to the mall, beach, park, etc. We even look forward to going to work, just for the A/C… and we leave our fur kids behind, sometimes outside in the heat.

Where do they stay during the day? In Part 2 of this series, I mentioned that our pets, especially those flat-faced ones, are affected by heat more than we are. So if it’s too hot outside for you, it’s too hot for pets too. Bring them in and let them enjoy the fans or A/C too. I know not everyone has or uses A/C, but even without it or fans, it’s usually cooler inside the house. When my house gets hot, my fur kids have their cool spots. I often find them sprawled out on the kitchen and bathroom floors, in the closets, or lounging in front of a fan. I’ve even found a cat sleeping in the bathtub on occasion.

If your pets must remain outside; Make sure they have a cool, shady place to rest throughout the day; with plenty of fresh air and cool water… that’s not only good for the animal, IT’S THE LAW!

Speaking of laws, in California and some other states, it’s illegal to chain or tether a dog to an object like a tree, doghouse, post etc., for more than three hours per day. Besides being illegal, it’s dangerous, inhumane, and can lead to serious behavioral problems in the tied out dog. Among other things, a tethered dog is vulnerable to attacks from other dogs or animals, harassment from children, and strangulation. Unless you’re able to supervise the dog, do not tie him out!

A doghouse can be a good option for a cool place, as long as it’s large enough, and it’s insulated and well ventilated. If it gets hot and stuffy inside the doghouse, it defeats the purpose. The same thing goes for a garage; because they’re usually not well insulated and there’s no moving air, it can get stifling inside a closed garage.

We usually sit or lie on furniture, wear shoes, and walk erect; so we forget how much heat the ground can absorb, retain, and then radiate, especially surfaces like asphalt and cement. Our pet’s entire, fur covered, bodies are always close to the ground! They feel the heat to their core… literally. Remember, shade moves with the sun, but the ground doesn’t cool as quickly. If your dog stays in an enclosed area, like a run, there should be enough cover so a good-sized area has continuous shade throughout the day. Also, an elevated bed allows air to circulate under the pet, and gets him off of the hot ground.

Speaking of the ground, many dogs will dig holes big enough to lie in… They know that a few inches under the surface, the ground is much cooler. If your dog does this, don’t get mad at him! Instead, think of some things you can do to make his “dog days” more comfortable.

Visiting ‘cooler places.’ During the summer, we like to go to the beach, park, lake, and other outdoor places. While most cats would rather stay home, many dogs would love to go with you. It’s great fun for them to get outdoors with us, and visiting new places gives your dog the chance to enjoy new sights and smells. A couple hours spent at a beach or park can be a great way to relax with your best friend, and maybe beat the heat too. Here are some things to think about before you and your dog take off for a little get away…

Know Your Dog Will Be Welcome: There are places where dogs aren’t allowed, even on leash. Before you go: Do some research and make sure dogs are welcome. Learn and follow the rules that apply to dogs, including poop pick up! Doing so is one way to insure dogs will continue to be welcomed there.

Water: Always bring plenty of water, and a bowl, for your dog.

Car Rides: DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN THE CAR! Cars are like mini glasshouses, and they heat up very fast, even with the windows cracked. When it’s 85° outside, your car can heat up to 102° in just ten minutes… Be prepared before you leave home with your dog, so you don’t have to stop by the store along the way. “I’m just going to run in for a minute,” can turn into several when the store is busy.

Shade: Even at the beach, where the breeze is usually cool, it still gets hot and the sand gets really hot. Like many dogs, Jesse James loves the beach, but he doesn’t like the water and won’t take advantage of it to cool off. When we’re having a beach day, if I don’t bring one, I always find Jesse hanging out under other peoples’ umbrellas. No matter where you’re relaxing outdoor destination is, make sure your dog will have a shady place to hang out with you. If there aren’t trees or other natural sources of shade, bring your own. Soft-sided portable crates, and pet tents are lightweight, easy to set up, and a safe place for your dog to get out of the sun.

First Aid Kit: It’s a good idea to always have a First Aid Kit in your car! It’s not just for your dog, it’s for you and your family too. Taking CPR and First Aid classes for pets and people is also a great idea.

Too Much of a Good Thing: Sometimes dogs get so involved in exploring and playing they forget to rest. Frequently encourage your dog to stop, drink water, maybe have a snack, relax and cool down.

What If I Get Lost?

Last week my friends’ miniature schnauzers, Caesar and Cleopatra, got lost. About a year ago, Cleo lost her eyesight and now she relies on Caesar to help her navigate. They were in the backyard and he found a small hole in the fence, which he took advantage of, slipped through… and took off, with Cleo following behind. A couple hours later, a neighbor found Caesar, but Cleo wasn’t with him. My friends did all the things you do when your dog is lost… they cried, visited the shelters, cried, put adds on Craigslist, cried, put fliers all over the neighborhood, cried, went back to the shelters, cried, contacted nearby vets, cried, checked with the shelters again, cried, etc. They were beside themselves with worry, grief, and fear for their little blind dog, especially after a few days.

Luckily, this story has a happy ending… On the first day, a man found Cleo and took her home with him. Since she wasn’t wearing a collar, with an ID tag and her dog license, he didn’t know whom to call. On the forth day, he happened to see my friends’ lost dog post on Craigslist and called them. Cleo came home safe and sound.

You might be thinking, “Sweet story, but so what?” I just wanted to point out that if a couple of simple things had been done, my friends would have been spared four long days of hell. I’m not trying to be critical of them, they love their dogs, but they made a couple of fairly common mistakes and paid for them with a lot of worry. I think Cleo’s story could be a lesson for all of us.

Fences only work if they keep your dog inside them. In this case, a board in the wooden fence had been damaged, which my friends knew about, but hadn’t gotten around to fixing. They thought it was too small for the dogs to get through, so they put it on the ‘to do’ list. However, dogs can be very determined and resourceful when it comes to getting things they want, like out of backyards. A bored dog, with enough of time on his paws, can make a very small hole really big. So, check for and fix broken boards or gaps in your fence. Make sure your fence is high enough that your dog can’t climb or jump over it. Some dogs will take advantage of furniture and other objects to use as a springboard to get over a fence. Most important, if you provide your dog with positive training and other things to keep him from getting bored, he might not want to get out of the yard.

Microchips are great, but where are your tags? I think microchips are great, my dog and four cats have them. But, microchips only work if you remember to update your information when you move or change your phone number. Cleo also has a microchip; but, like the nice man who found her, not all good people are “animal people.” He didn’t know to take her to a vet or shelter to have her scanned.

If Cleo had been wearing a well fitting collar with current ID tags, she would have been returned the first day. Many people think their dogs don’t need to wear their tags at home, but stuff happens… fences get broken, doors and gates get left open, etc., and dogs get loose. If your dog, or cat, always has on current ID tags, anyone who finds your pet can contact you right away. These tags are inexpensive and available at many pet stores. Just make sure to replace them if you change your phone number, or if they become too damaged to read.

A flat or rolled collar with a buckle or plastic snap is a good choice for everyday use. They come in leather, nylon and many other materials. There are a huge variety of colors, patterns, widths, etc. They can range in price from about $8 and up. The most important thing is to make sure the collar is the right size for your dog. Measure your dog’s neck and then add one inch to get the right size. Never attach tags to a choke collar; and do not continuously keep a choke collar on a dog. They’re called choke collars for a reason! Every year thousands of dogs are strangled to death by them. The ‘live’ ring gets caught on something, the dog struggles to get away, which is a dog’s natural reaction, and the collar just gets tighter and tighter. My strongest advice is: DON’T USE CHOKE OR PRONG COLLARS, PERIOD!

If you find a lost pet: If the dog has on a license tag, call Animal Control, and they can give you the owner’s phone number over the phone. Many people are reluctant to take a pet they’ve found to Animal Control. They’re afraid the owner won’t look for him there, and the dog, or cat, will be euthanized. So, they keep the animal with them and search for the owner on their own. My friends were very lucky that the man who found Cleo actually saw their post on Craigslist, but that doesn’t always happen. When they escape, some dogs can run for miles. So putting posters up where the dog was lost, or found, might not help; chances are the parties involved won’t see them. Do put up posters and place posts on the Internet, sometimes those things work. But you should also take the pet to the closest shelter, where they can scan him for a microchip and put him on public display for the owners to find. Most people search the shelters for their lost pets.

FYI, if you take a found pet to a shelter, you can put a Finders Hold on the animal, and if the owners don’t claim him, you will be first in line to adopt him. Here’s a link to San Diego Animal Control with more info about what to do if you find a lost pet: http://www.sddac.com/lostandfound/ifoundpet.asp

Hot Tips For Cool Pets! … Part 2: Pets Don’t Sweat and They Don’t Complain

This obviously is part two of my series, Hot Tips for Cool Pets. Part one was about water. My goal for this series is go provide pet parents with information and ideas to help keep their fur kids cool, safe and comfortable during hot weather and all year long.

Pets don’t sweat!

Our fur kids far more likely than we are to suffer from heat related issues, including deadly heat stroke! We have the huge advantage over our furry friends of being able to sweat. You may thinking, “What? I spend big bucks on stuff to keep me from sweating.” However, our ability to perspire, gives us a great mechanism to regulate our body heat. Our fur-covered friends are only able to cool themselves through panting, basically exhaling their body heat, and through a small amount of perspiration from their paw pads and nose. This is much less efficient than sweating, so our pets are far more susceptible to heat exhaustion or heat stroke than we are. Remember: If you’re hot, your pets are even hotter!!!!

FYI… Brachycephalic (flat faced) breeds, like Bull Dogs, Pugs, Persian Cats, etc., are even more susceptible to heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Many of them cannot tolerate heat at all, so if you share your life with a Brachy, like I do, be very careful to keep them cool at all times!

Pets don’t complain!

The thing is many pets don’t complain when they’re starting to feel sick. Instincts tell them not to show signs of weakness, so they often suffer in silence. Or they’re having so much fun playing, lying in the sun, being with us, etc., that they ignore what their bodies are telling them.

Some animals, especially young ones, aren’t always in tune with their bodies, and they can get so caught up in playing, ball/Frisbee chasing, etc., that they won’t stop when they start to get hot and tired. While most pets will seek out cool places to rest during the heat of the day, I’ve known sun loving dogs and cats (and people) who, if allowed to, will lie in the sun until they nearly pass out from heat exhaustion. It’s up to us to monitor our fur kids, make them stop playing or come inside before then start to get overheated.

Exercise doesn’t replace good training.

OK, now I’m going to have a bit of a rant… Even on cool days, I see people on bikes, rollerblades, skateboards, etc., running an obviously hot and exhausted dog… and it makes me so angry! It makes me even angrier during hot weather. If they were actually running themselves, they might think twice about how far and fast they are forcing their dog to go.

I’m certainly not opposed to exercising us, or our dogs, and exercising with our K9 friends can make it way more fun! Just keep in mind that many dogs will push themselves way too far to keep up with us, even if it means making themselves very sick in the process. And, let’s be honest, they often don’t really get to choose to stop, when we’re pulling them along by their necks. Of course, there are those breeds and types of dogs for whom a good long run is good exercise, but even they can get too much of a good thing, especially on hot days. Most breeds were not designed for long distance running, they’re more like sprinters than marathon runners. Making them do so can be damaging to their muscles, bones, and joints. Plus, on warm days, it can be very hazardous to their health!

As with ourselves… Be wise when you exercise your dog! On very hot or humid days, only exercise your dog in the early morning or late evening, when it’s cooler. Even then, it can still be humid, which makes it difficult to breath well. When your dog starts to pant heavily, with his tongue hanging way out of his wide-open mouth, and he starts to slow down… he’s tired… give him a break!

I know most people aren’t trying to be cruel to their dog, even though they often are; they really love him or her and think they’re doing a good thing for their dog. Often they’re operating under the misguided idea that dogs just need lots and lots of exercise to make them better behaved. Usually, it really makes them too tired to move when they’re done running for several miles, so they just seem better behaved. But what has the dog really learned? Maybe… that his beloved person can be very mean! It’s better to train your dog, along with providing reasonable exercise and giving him positive things to do! For some ideas, check out my blog: I’m Soooooo Bored!!!!

Hot surfaces and tender paws!

Most of us wear shoes when we’re walking around outside, especially on hot days. So we often forget just how hot streets and sidewalks can get. Our dogs can’t forget because they’re often forced to walk on these very hot surfaces with their bare paws.

When I was a kid, I had to be forced to wear shoes (I hated them, still do). I would shed them whenever I could and go barefoot. My mom must have asked, “Where are your shoes?” a million times. Since our bodies are often smarter than we are, the soles of my feet got thick and hard to accommodate the wear and tear of barefoot walking. But, even with my very tough feet, I would often have to run across asphalt streets, they were so hot, and even then my feet occasionally got burned. Even concrete sidewalks got too hot to walk on.

You might be thinking, “That’s nice, but who cares? A human’s foot is not like an animal’s paw.” You would be right, there are obvious physiological differences. But you would also be wrong… our feet, like their paws did not evolve to walk on hot blacktop or concrete. During the day, pavements can reach 150 degrees. Walking and running on hot pavement can burn your dog’s paws. Some dogs have actually had the pads of their paws literally burned off by being forced to run on the hot ground! BTW, even dirt paths can get very warm on hot days!

When you’re out with your dog, keep an eye on him while he’s walking. If he starts picking his paws up quickly, the ground may be too hot. Try to get him off the pavement and onto grass ASAP, grass is always cooler than cement! However, the best idea is to avoid asking your dog to walk on hot surfaces in the first place.

Hot Tips For Cool Pets! … Part 1: Water

Now that the ‘dog days of summer’ are almost here, I thought I’d write a blog series to share some ideas of how to help keep our pets cool and safe during hot weather, and all year long. I know there’s a ton of “summer safety” articles out there, so I hope to bring a little bit of a new twist to mine; I also hope you’ll like and learn something from this blog series… Please feel free to add comments, suggestions and ideas!

We All Need Water:

Of course it’s important to provide plenty of fresh water for our pets every day, but during hot weather it’s even more so, since pets tend to drink more when it’s hot. You might want to put out extra water bowls during the summer months. Make sure outside water bowls are out of the direct sun; the water can get very warm, especially in a metal bowl. Many pets tend to dislike warm water and may refuse to drink it, even when they are very thirsty.

Don’t give a really hot dog (or anyone) really cold water. Cold water can be a big shock to the system of an overheated body. Of course, it’s important to keep our pets from getting overheated in the first place, but sometimes it does happen. If your pet does get overheated, give him small amounts of cool, not cold, water every few minutes. Get him out of the sun and into a cool place. Wrap him in a cool wet towel or pour cool water over his body to help reduce his core body temperature. If an animal shows signs of heat stroke, vomiting, fainting, seizures, etc., wrap him in a wet towel and get him to a vet immediately.

When going places with your dog, remember to take water, and a bowl, for him too. While many dog parks have doggie water fountains and dog friendly places usually provide water for their K9 patrons, it’s good to have your own… just in case. Notice I said, “and a bowl?” That’s because it’s really difficult for some dogs to drink from a bottle, fountain, hose, etc. They often don’t get enough water, may choke, and, since they can only lap at it, it’s a waste of water. Most animals do better drinking from a bowl instead. There are many varieties of portable water bowls on the market. Some have a bottle for water attached to a bowl, such as the Water Rover, and others are foldable. Of course, you can always use any bowl you want J

Pools Are Great Summer Time Fun…

Many dogs love water; they love to play, wade, lie, and swim whenever possible. If you have a swimming pool, you may find it difficult to keep your dog out of it. A pool can be a great way for dogs to cool off, get exercise and have a blast!

But remember dogs can and do drown in swimming pools every year. Follow all pool safety rules with your fur kids too. Make sure your pets don’t have unsupervised access to any pool, even kiddy pools. The first time he gets in any new pool, be sure to teach your dog where the stairs are, how to find them and how to get out.

BEWARE OF POOL COVERS… children, pets and wildlife have been killed because they were able to slip between the edge of the cover and the side of the pool, and then weren’t able to get back out from under the cover.

Most dogs instinctually know how to swim, but some breeds, such as Bull Dogs, are usually unable to. There are floatation devices for dogs, which you might think about purchasing if your dog can’t swim and he’s around water a lot. Some dogs don’t feel comfortable* going into a pool, although with lots positive reinforcement you might be able to change his mind. Also, not every dog has access to a swimming pool. So a wading pool can be a great way for those dogs to cool off on hot summer days. A couple inches of water will be enough for your dog to be able to lie down, splash around, and cool off in.

* Unless you absolutely know your dog will enjoy it, don’t push or throw him into a pool. If he is frightened by the experience, he may never want to go swimming again.

I’m Riding in YOUR Car…

Most people drive or ride in a car daily. We don’t think about the potential danger, we just hop in and go. Still, most of us use seat belts, secure babies and small children in car seats, and we rely on airbags and structural design to protect us in case of an accident. However, we often just put our dogs in the car and drive away. I admit I’m often guilty of this myself… So I thought it might be a good idea to remind us all about car safety for our furry family members.

I often see a dog sitting, or most often standing, on someone’s lap while they’re driving and I cringe because it’s just so dangerous. Having anything between a driver and the steering wheel is a driving distraction. Worst of all, AIRBAGS CAN KILL YOUR DOG! Unless you can deactivate the airbag, dogs should not ride in the front seat and never on someone’s lap. During a sudden stop, or in an accident, an unsecured pet can be thrown around inside the car. This could seriously injure the animal, and being hit by him can injure passengers. During an accident, if a window breaks or a door comes open, a frightened or injured pet might run away. To protect all the passengers in a vehicle, like us humans, pets should always be secured in and to the car.

A crate may be the best way to transport some pets; I use them with my cats. If properly trained and used, a crate can offer familiar surroundings and a secure space. Be sure to secure the crate to your vehicle! An unsecured crate can suddenly shift during an emergency maneuver or an accident. This could cause injury to your pet, as well as, you or other passengers. Also, keep the temperature inside the crate in mind; try not to put it on the side of the car that will get the most direct sun.

For my dog and clients, I use a harness attached to a short strap, which is secured to a seatbelt or into a seatbelt receptacle. The strap should be just long enough to allow the dog, or cat, to sit, lie down, or look out of the window, but long enough for him to fall off the seat during a quick stop. There are several varieties and sizes of car safety harnesses available too.

It’s important to use a harness, not his collar, to secure your pet. In an accident your dog’s body weight, suddenly putting pressure on his collar, could cause serious throat, neck, or spine injury.

For small dogs, or car friendly cats, there are also car seats for pets. They allow smaller pets to be high enough to see out of windows comfortably and safely. Always secure a pet car seat to the car with straps that fit around the back your car’s seat. Then attach your pet’s harness to his car seat.

More car safety tips for pets:

• Don't leave your dog locked in the car. The inside of a car, even with the windows opened, can heat up extremely fast. When it’s 85 degrees outside, your car can heat up to 102 degrees in just ten minutes, and to 120 degrees in thirty minutes… When it’s only 72 degrees outside, your car can heat up to 116 degrees in one hour, with the windows cracked.
• Be aware of the temperature where your pet is positioned in the car, especially inside a crate. If necessary, open a window, adjust the air conditioning, or move the pet to prevent overheating and/or dehydration. Direct sun might adversely affect pets, even when the car is moving and the air is cooler; you might think about installing sunshades on the side windows.
• While dogs may love the feeling of the wind in his their faces, when he hangs his head out of an open window, your dog could suffer eye damage, or even head injury, from flying road debris.
• Train your dog to wait until you tell him to enter and exit a car. This not only teaches him self-control, it also prevents him from happily bounding out of a car and into traffic.

I’m Soooooo Bored!!!!

There’s nothing to do… I’m sooo bored! Sounds like the average kid, but it’s really what many of our pets are thinking.

Sadly many of our fur kids are just plain bored out of their minds. So they find things to occupy themselves, which we often don’t like because the things they choose to do usually involves destroying our stuff or disturbing the neighbors. I know most think their dog is fine because he has a yard to run around in, or he gets a walk around the block almost every day. I don’t know about you, but if I were locked up in a yard or house almost all day... everyday, I would go stir crazy in about a week. Is it really any wonder that many dogs chew on furniture, dig up the garden, bark all day, go bananas when they see a leash, freak out in the car, etc.

BTW, your dog really isn’t doing those things to get back at you; he’s just being a dog! Dogs live in the moment, so punishing a dog for doing what comes natural to him is cruel because, unless you catch him in the act of doing whatever, and maybe not even then, he won’t understand why he’s being punished. He’ll just know you’re mad at him, so when he cowers, he’s not feeling “guilty” he’s feeling fear of you! It’s up to us to provide our dogs with the training and tools they need to learn to live with us and in our homes. Here are a few suggestions of things you can do with and for your dog to give him those tools.

Exercise:

While good nutrition and the proper amount and type exercise are important to maintain a healthy animal, both physically and behaviorally, you can give dogs too much of both. Some people will tell you that a tired dog is a good dog, however an overly tired dog can be a sore, stressed, and grumpy dog. By all means, please exercise your dog well daily, but make sure to keep it within your dog’s current physical limits. Keep in mind that, like us, an older dog or one who’s been a couch potato for the past two years won’t have the stamina to run for very long. Even a healthy, active dog can be over-exercised, especially on very warm days. Young dogs, who’s skeletal and muscle structure are not fully formed, can suffer lifelong injuries from too much strenuous exercise. Also too much exercise can have the opposite effect of what you’re hoping for, you may end up with an even more hyper, reactive dog. This is a nice article, which explains why this sometimes happens: http://www.4pawsuniversity.com/fetch.htm

Good Training Can Work Wonders:

Mental exercise is just as important as is physical exercise for all of us. Our fur kids are intelligent; they want and need to use their brains and to learn new things. Positive Reinforcement Training, such as clicker training, is a great way to help your dog, cat, or any other pet, use his brain, as well as, learn new and better behaviors to replace those you don’t really like. When you make training fun and rewarding for both yourself and your dog, it makes learning easier, helps build better communication between you, and strengthens the bond you share. To learn more about Positive Reinforcement Training, Animal Behavior, and Pet Nutrition, see our Resources Page for a list of books, links and other things: http://pawsitivepawsabilities.com/Resources.html

Let’s face it; most people really know how to train an animal. The average person probably wouldn’t know how to train a cat to jump onto a pedestal, ring a bell, and do it every time and only when they said, “Ding Dong.” Often when people try to train their dog, they end up yelling and yanking on him, the dog gets frightened, and everyone ends up stressed out and frustrated. That’s why it can be very helpful to hire a trainer; just make sure to choose one who uses positive reinforcement! To find a trainer, check out the following links:

http://www.sandiegodogtrainers.com

http://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find-a-trainer

http://www.iaabc.org

Dog sports such as; agility, freestyle, or rally obedience can be great ways to train and exercise your dog at the same time. Just make sure your trainer, club or group uses positive reinforcement training and methods. Cats can do agility too… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3uy5x110p0

Get Your Dog Out and About:

Most dogs love to take walks, go for car rides, and just get out into the world and have a good sniff. Well-socialized dogs usually like to meet new people and other dogs, and they enjoy having new experiences. Whenever possible, I take my dog Jesse James with me where ever I go. We visit our friends and most of our clients together, we go out to eat at dog friendly restaurants, I take him to parks, beaches, pet stores, etc. We even travel together, although not often enough J

Take your dog on daily walks, at least two, but go in different directions, around new blocks, and explore your neighborhood with your dog. You might be surprised who you’ll meet or what you’ll find while you’re out with your dog. Allow your dog to sniff and do dog stuff too, remember… it’s really his walk. You can also hire a pet sitter or dog walker to take your dog out for long walks, to parks or beaches, and/or play with him while you’re away during the day. Or you might look into taking your dog friendly dog to a good doggie daycare. You might find that coming home to a well exercised, happy dog and undamaged house is worth the money.

Many dogs love a car ride; even a quick trip around the block will make a lot of dogs very happy. A trip to the park or a pet store can be a huge treat/reward for good behavior. Find pet friendly places, go to events for dogs, just get out and enjoy life with your dog.

Use Food to your advantage:

Besides using food during training, try making some changes to the way to feed your dog his regular meals. Most dogs love to search and work for their meals. Scientific observations of feral dogs have shown they spend most of their waking time looking for food. The search for food stimulates the mind and senses; it also expends energy! When we put our dog’s food in a bowl and they scarf it down in less than two minutes, they are missing out on their instinctual need to find their own food. Why not use their food drive to your advantage and provide your pets with fun and intriguing ways to use their natural instincts?

If you feed your dog kibble, try throwing some, or all, of it out in the back yard for him to search for. At first he may look at you like you’ve suddenly lost your mind, but many dogs will have a great time, often spend hours, and use a lot of energy sniffing out that last piece of kibble.

Hide his food and some treats around the house/yard for your dog, or cat, to look for. When you first start, make it easy for the fur kid, so they don’t get frustrated and give up. Then, as they catch on to the find it game, you can start to make it more difficult for them to find the treats.

Food Carrying toys are also a great way for a dog, or cat, to work for his food, and work out his brain at the same time. Some people I know only feed their dogs in Kongs and other food toys. IMPORTANT: Always supervise your dogs while they’re using any food carrying toy! There are a wide variety of these types of toys available at pet stores or on the Internet. What they all have in common is that you put food (always healthy and human grade, but that’s another topic) inside and the dog, or cat, has to work to get it out. You can also make your own, and save some $$. Here are a few ideas to try, but be creative and send me your ideas.

Paper Towel Cores: When you’ve finished off a roll of paper towels, save the cardboard core and put your dog’s food and some smelly treats in it. Fold over both ends a couple of times, then give it to your dogs to figure out how to get his food out. You can do the same thing with TP cores.

Cardboard Egg Cartons (not Styrofoam): Put some smelly food, like small bits of hot dog, along with some of your dog’s food in the cups, close the top and let your dog try to get the food out.

Paper Bags: Put fun things like; food, toys, raw bones, bully sticks, etc. inside a brown paper bag. Roll the top over a few times to close the bag and give it to your dog. Some dogs will toss the bag, some will patiently unroll it, and some will tear the bag up. Every dog has his or her own bag opening technique. BTW, large paper bags make a hiding toy for cats; just make sure to remove any handles.

Water/Soda Bottles: Before you recycle your water or soda bottle, reuse it. Cut some holes in the bottle, put your dog’s food inside and let him roll it around, paw at it, or whatever to get the food out. Always pick up the bottle when your dog is finished. This is a video of one of my clients playing with a food bottle I made for him: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohu5QBMB4NQ

Some of the commercially available food carrying toys I really like:

Kongs: These are great toys! They come in a wide variety of sizes, types and styles. Make sure to get one that is the right size and type for your dog. You can fill Kongs with a wide variety of things, along with his meal, to keep them interesting for your dog. Try stuffing a few Kongs ahead of time, then put them in the freezer. When your dog needs something to occupy himself for awhile, you will have a pre-made Kong for your dog. Also frozen Kongs last longer! For ideas on what to put in them, check out their website. http://www.kongcompany.com

Busy Buddies: This is a Trademark name for a variety of food carrying toys made by the Premier Company. Among my favorites are the Tug-a-Jug, Twist ‘N Treat and Squirrel Dude. They are available at many pet stores, but you can get them from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=busy+buddy+dog+toys&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=3031768191&ref=pd_sl_ub2zm313v_b

TreatStik: This is an easy to use toy and it’s also fairly durable too. http://www.treatstik.com

Treat Balls: There are several varieties of treat balls available. The following links will show you a couple different types. Make sure any ball you give your dog is too big to be swallowed!

http://www.dogtoys.com/amazeaball1.html

http://www.sitstay.com/dog/supplies/servlet/product_10001_10001_97909_-1_Atomic+Treat+Ball_13251_13360_

Give Your Dog a Raw Bone:

Dogs need to chew! It’s not that they just like it; they need to do it. Chewing relieves stress, and it gives you dog something to think about and manipulate. A good long chew can really tire the average dog out, because they use a lot of energy while chewing. Chewing, especially raw bones, helps keep his teeth clean, and his gums and jaws healthy.

Always make sure the chew is large enough so your dog can’t swallow it whole. Throw away bones and chews when they get too small. If he is able to break large pieces off (big enough to cause a choking problem) remove it and don’t give him any more of that specific chew or bone. If a chew or bone gets sharp edges, also take it away. When you give your dog any chew, always supervise him while he is chewing on it.

Recommended Chews:

Raw (never cooked) Bones including: Marrowbones (beef, bison, ostrich, venison, etc.), knucklebones (not for heavy chewers), chicken necks (not for gulpers), chicken thighs, chicken backs, turkey necks, beef or bison ribs, etc. Avoid weight bearing bones.

12” Bully Sticks: Most small dogs can chew a 12 inch stick, I think the 6 inch ones are a waste of money.

Antlers: Literally deer antlers, they are very hard, last a long time, but not all dogs like them.

Unbleached Pressed Rawhides: Make sure to get pressed rawhide, not the kind with knots at the ends, or rawhide strips.

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie:

Dogs need a lot of sleep, like sixteen hours per day. Often, like us, they don’t get as much sleep, as they really need. Also, like us, an overly tired dog can be stressed, grumpy, and over reactive. When a dog is out in the yard all day, where he can hear people, dogs, skateboards, etc., constantly pass by it might be difficult for him to rest. Or if you have an active household, with kids coming and going a lot, your dog might not be getting the rest time he needs. Provide your dog with a comfortable, quiet, and cool place to sleep. Unless it’s absolutely necessary, when you find your dog sleeping… don’t bother him, no matter how cute and cuddly he looks. You probably don’t like it when people wake you up for no good reason either.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YTfSqdiR-o